With two seasons of "Top Chef" already
wrapped, Bravo is nearly ready to launch a third helping of
the hit reality show. While the backstabbing, undercutting and humiliation
from the judges continues, we've decided to savor the delicious array of
great food programming on television. TV cooking pioneers such as Julia
Child, Graham "Galloping Gourmet" Kerr and Jeff "The Frugal Gourment"
Smith set a growing table that today is filled with every possible breed
of chef dishing out every conceivable type of recipe and kitchen advice.
Here, a buffet of our favorites; grab a plate, and don't forget to leave
room for seconds.
Appetizers Rachael Ray (in
all her bubbly incarnations: "$40 a Day," "30-Minute Meals,"
"Rachael Ray's Tasty Travels," "Inside Dish," Food Network and her
syndicated daytime show): Ray's taken a beating from food snobs, but
there's no denying that her pep-squad approach to cooking is
infectious. Watch her so you can remember why you liked cooking in
the first place. Yum-o. Barbara Smith ("B. Smith
with Style," TV One): Unfortunately, this national cooking
treasure's show is only on the TV One channel, which isn't carried
by all cable providers. But Smith, an accomplished restaurateur and
designer as well as chef, casts a golden glow on everything she
touches. In a pinch, check out her cookbooks and prepare to
drool. Mario Batali ("Malto Mario," "Ciao
America," Food Network): As a food personality, he's an unstoppable
machine; as a champion of delicious Italian fare, è eccellente. You
won't learn step-by-step cooking as much as you'll gain an overall
appreciation of all that is delish -- and a desire to fly to New
York to dine at all his restaurants. "Food
Fight" (Food Network): On this earnest-but-pallid version
of "Top Chef," you can learn some great cooking shortcuts, but you
don't get any of that schadenfreude-liciousness of watching the
"Project Runway"-esque contestants undercut each
other.
Main Courses "Iron Chef," "Iron Chef
America" (Food Network): This is the 900-pound gorilla of
cooking shows, with more than a little WWE "Raw" thrown in for good
measure. We've watched it for years and still can't really tell you
the premise, except that every episode, especially of the Japanese
version, has elements of kabuki theater (dramatic lighting,
greetings barked as insults, ingredients bathed in weird light and
dry-ice smoke). No wonder fans have invented Iron Chef Bingo based
on common occurrences in the show ("Bimbo giggles inappropriately,"
"someone accidentally sets something on fire" -- you get the idea).
The American version is just as weird -- am I the only person who
thinks host Mark Dacascos talks as though he's really speaking
Japanese, and the English is dubbed in later? -- but just as
addictive. See you in the Kitchen Stadium. Bobby
Flay (hosts several shows including current faves "Boy
Meets Grill" and "BBQ with Bobby Flay," Food Network): He's a rock
star, all right? His take on traditional Southwestern dishes made
his Mesa Grill in New York a Mecca for chipotle lovers. Flay has
adapted his strengths into several compulsively watchable shows,
which are also actually easy to follow and very inspiring (try the
blue corn pancakes with orange honey butter -- dreamy).
Ina Garten ("The Barefoot Contessa," Food
Network): Ina Garten is the new Martha, and we mean that in the best
possible way. She challenges, she energizes, she creates a meal you
can almost taste in your living room. If she pushes you a little
past your comfort zone, believe me, her potato-fennel gratin is well
worth it. Giada De Laurentiis ("Everyday
Italian," Food Network): Yes, her beauty is distracting, and it's
annoying how "authentically" Italian she insists she is, despite
growing up in Southern California as the granddaughter of
uber-producer Dino De Laurentiis. Still, De Laurentiis has earned
her chops, studying at the Cordon Bleu and immersing herself in true
Italian basics. Her approach is unintimidating and requires a
minimum of note taking while watching. That's always a plus.
Palate Cleansers These are the take-a-deep-breath remedial shows that have no
highfalutin ambitions other than to help you cover your rear. We
love 'em: "Real Simple Television" (PBS) has a
semiregular "can this meal be saved" segment that's awesome (a
recent one showed how to save both overcooked chicken and overcooked
broccoli; the resulting dish was moist and flavorful).
"America's Test Kitchen" (PBS) shows ways to adapt
recipes given what you have on hand. "How to Boil
Water" (Food Network) gives the basics the loving treatment
they deserve, and even the most accomplished cook will learn useful
tips.
Desserts/Guilty Pleasures We're not saying
these are all empty calories, not by a long shot. We love watching,
even if we don't do a ton of cooking as a result (and sometimes even
if we do): Emeril Lagasse ("Emeril Live,"
"Essence of Emeril," Food Network): Yes, he's faded since his apex
in the '90s (and that toothpaste commercial hasn't helped), but as a
friendly persona to encourage you to take seasonings -- and your
cooking ambitions -- "up a notch," he's still a great kitchen tour
guide. Paula Deen ("Paula's Home Cooking," Food
Network): Now this is comfort food of the highest order. Nothing
minceur about Deen; her recipes include the likes of banana split
cake and cheeseburger meatloaf and sauce. Deen's the one you want to
come to your potluck -- and you'll want to bring something of hers
wherever you're invited, too. Anthony Bourdain
("Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations," Travel Channel): His "Kitchen
Confidential" was must-reading for foodies, and it doesn't hurt that
Bourdain has that dreamy bad-boy heroin-addict womanizing persona.
We still put shallots in everything because of him. Double
yum-o.